Oil Change:
One of the simplest DIY maintenance chores is changing the oil. Why spend money to have someone else potentially ruin your Z over something so simple?

Every 3,000 miles

Special Tools:
Small 2x4 block.
Filter cap socket
Oil pan
Rubber gloves

Part Numbers:

All links for OEM parts go to CourtesyParts.com for on-line parts ordering.

5qts of quality synthetic oil
11026-01M02 drain plug crush washer
15208-55Y00 oil filter (blue) superceeds 15208-60U00 (white)

Oil Capacity:
NA: 4 3/8 w/ filter 3 7/8 w/o filter
TT: 4 5/8 w/ filter 4 1/4 w/o filter

'91-'96 (didn't hear from '93 during survey, but it's obvious)
NO difference in TT vs. NA capacity (The oil cooler only comes into play on it's removal)
3 5/8 w/ filter 3 1/8 w/o filter


1. Start the car & let it idle until the temperature gauge needle starts to rise. Drive the car up on a 2x4 (passenger front tire only) to get enough ground clearance (1.). Kill the engine, put the car in gear & pull the emergency brake, you will be partially under the car. 

2. Unscrew the oil fill cap (2.) on top of the engine 

3. Put on the rubber gloves. Yes, it sounds funny, but you don't need any real tactile ability to do this & the gloves will keep your hands clean. Slide the oil catch pan under the engine. 

4. Lie on your back with your head toward front of car & body parallel to the passenger side of the car to remove the drain plug (1 x 14mm) by reaching behind the front tire. If the car has always been taken to oil change places, this might be difficult the first time, as they have a tendancy to over torque the drainplug (potentially stripping out the bolt hole). Break it loose & then uncrew it by hand. Be VERY careful, the oil is warm/hot. Make sure when the bolt is removed, the oil coming out will pour into the catch pan (3.). 

5. Using the Filter cap socket (4.), remove the oil filter next to the plug (5.). Break it loose & then unscrew it by hand. Make sure when the filter is removed, the oil coming out will pour into the catch pan. When it is removed, set it in the oil catch pan. 

6. While letting the oil drain, remove the crush washer (6.) from the drainplug & replace it with a new one. I do this every other oil change. The side with the 'threading cut' in it goes on the bolt first, so it ends up against the bolt head. Fill new filter with new motor oil & wipe a little bit on the rubber seal on top (7.). 

7. After the oil has drained out (down to dripping), replace the drainplug & torque to 22-29 ft-lbs. Screw in the new filter until it's snug, then tighten another 2/3 turn with the filter cap socket. 

8. Refill with the remaining quantity of quality synthetic oil (8.). Note there will be a difference w/ & w/o filter change & if any engine work was done inbetween. Always check the level with the dipstick after running the engine for a couple minutes to make sure the level is proper. It's easier to add then subtract.

9. Start the car & let it idle, make sure the oil pressure gauge gets above the 20psi marker, if it doesn't have pressure almost immediately, kill the engine & make sure the proper amount of oil is in the engine using the dipstick, also check to make sure the drainplug & filter are torqued to spec. & not leaking. 

REV: 10-19-2003


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© Twin Turbo Zs of Dallas - All Rights Reserved 2003

1.2 x 4 under front tire
2.oil filler cap removed
3.oil draining into pan
4.oil filter cap socket
5.oil filter
6.drain plug & crash washer
7.filled filter before installing
8.refilling oil with quality synthetic